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November 05, 2003
Heroes
Lest one think I am just wandering about, gathering cultural observations and not working, I will try to set the record straight! I have been very happily and exhaustedly talking to environmentalists here. Yesterday I attended (and was able to film--see me leaning over in my head scarf?) the signing of the Caspian Sea Convention between Iran, Russia, Kazakhstan and Azerbajian. After something like 8 years, and in the absence of an overarching legal agreement about who actually owns the waters, these countries have come together to sign an environmental protocol. The decline in sturgeon, not to mention the threats to other animals and humans from the dreadful water quality of the sea, prompted the countries to come together. Iran took the lead, as it's at the bottom of the sea and stands to have the most pollution hit its waters.
The signing was a grand affair, with 500 attendees, media from different countries, and traditional music. I made some good contacts.
I had already met the young woman who has behind the scenes worked so hard on the agreement (she's pictured above) and hope to include her in a piece. But I was able to meet some people from the north that I will visit in the next few days. I also met a cameraman who could help me if needed.
I also got my camera within two feet of Vice President Ebtekar (again, see picture above.) She has been rather elusive to pin down an interview with, but I'm getting closer. Her folks called today and wanted to know whether it would have any possibility of going national, and I said yes. But I still need a letter from the Ministry of Islamic Culture and Guidance. I spent a good part of the day trying to track down paperwork that is still lost between that Ministry and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. I sat for a few hours in the Guidance office (bad girl, bad girl) and met a nice reporter from Australia who had just left Sri Lanka, where things are exploding (I hope our Fellow there is getting great stories!) He's been to all sorts of hot spots but is trying to lead a mellower life (hence coming to Iran?!) so he can spend more time with his wife.
I have talked to many NGO members and some interesting environmental reporters. There are so few environmentalists here, though, and they are so fractured, that it's difficult to get a handle on the story. So I've decided to concentrate on finding some "heroes" of the environmental movement. One may be a woman who is actually originally from Finland, trained in the United States, who for 30 years has been watching the very few Siberian cranes left in the world. They overwinter in north Iran. There were originally 10 and now there's only 3. She suffered a lot during the revolution trying to keep her project alive but now in the Reformist government she's getting some help.
Another is Eskandar Firouz, the father of the environmental movement here. He "wrote the book" on birds and mammals here, literally, and is an inspiration to many. I talked with a young man today who said he wanted to be Mr. Firouz when he grew up and he considers himself so lucky to have just met him once.I have an appointment to talk to him next week, which was difficult since he's reclusive. He was once in line to lead the International Union of Conservationists, but then the revolution happened.
Another is a woman, about 80, who was working as a librarian when she read a book about air pollution and decided to start a group called Women's Society Against Environmental Pollution. In one group meeting I attended, I asked her about her accomplishments and she said all she can do is cry because the situation is still so bad. But I think she's still a role model.
There are some wildlife rangers who have also put their lives on the line. I hope to meet one. And there is Mr. Ziaee, a former director of wildlife, who was "asked to leave" his position and now runs the first Ecotour company here. Again, for many young people he is a role model for his commitment to the environment. It may be apocraphal, but I have been told that when the Departmet of Environment here wanted to build its huge complex, thereby destroying a park here, he came out to the site and put his body in front of the construction people to try and stop them.
I went to the holy city of Masshad and met with two physicians who have their own group to encourage tree planting. The man has also translated the books of Lester Brown of Worldwatch and just recently won the top prize from the Iranian Publisher's group for one of his translations. He and his wife are very eloquent about the loss of forests in the country.
While there I also met (and danced with!) a very interesting man who I would love to visit but may not have the time. He lives like a hermit in northern Iran in the forest, and eats only organic food that he has grown. He's in his 70s, at least, and very, very eccentric. He's rich and has devoted all of his money to the environmental movement, such as it is in Iran.
I also spent time with a woman who lived in the states for 25 years. She has a recycling program in Masshad which gives people book vouchers in exchange for their cardboard and paper.
My only limitation is time. Because I spent a week traveling, and because it is so difficult to block out appointments, I feel time being eaten up. Just as I make one appointment, another cancels and then reschedules at a time when I already have an appointment, forcing me to stay in Tehran for yet another day. The camera is often a hindrance, so I take written notes instead. There's also time just spent washing clothes, recharging phone, camera and video camera. Thank God I finally do have the cell phone, though. It's been a godsend. I definitely could use another week, though.
I continue to be inspired by the few environmentalists who are here, and depressed by the state of the environment here. Two days ago, one could breathe in Tehran, but today it was back to being a yellow sky. There are times when I just cannot believe that people would subject themselves to this situation. There are just so many people here that you can't believe that all of them wouldn't just turn on each other. Where do they all work, too? I finally got a map and am more familiar with parts of the city, but when you fly in, it's so vast it actually looks like a toy city. Your mind just cannot wrap itself around that much concrete. I fear that even with the work occuring, it's just too much to overcome. But I will try and promote the people are are at least trying.
Posted by MJF at November 5, 2003 07:15 PM